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Hiking Scafell: The Highest Mountain in England

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Early on a Saturday morning, a few days before the solstice I woke up at 4:30am and drove to the trailhead of Scafell Pike, the tallest mountain in England. ⁣I'm not much of a morning person but I also don't like crowds so my desire to climb the mountain outweighed my desire to stay in bed. And it helps that the light was already starting to creep across the sky when I started my drive to the base of the mountain. (Although I must admit I did take a 20 minute nap before setting off on my hike). ⁣I started up the mountain at 7am. My timing turned out to be perfect. I had no trouble finding a spot to park at the base of the mountain, and I managed to start heading up before the masses came and as the sunrise hikers were on their way down. It was me and a handful of others on the trail, just the way I like it.  Unfortunately, Mother Nature wasn't quite as accommodating. The clouds, which were hugging the top of the mountain and threatening rain, didn’t seem to want to budge. I

Literary Works

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I love to read but I've never been someone who can recite authors and books and passages from famous literature. But while I travel through England I'm reminded of so many names that are familiar. It's amazing to me how many English authors have influenced our literature. In the Lakes District I enjoyed learning about a few that spent time in the region - on my day off, I even made it to their homes to explore.  First stop: Allan Bank, the home of William Wordsworth William Wordsworth, called Grasmere “the loveliest spot that man hath ever found” and lived here for 14 years at Allan Bank. Allan Bank is a nondescript communal home that he moved into with his growing family and another poet. It may not be much to look at any more but the views looking out on Grasmere make it very clear why he loved it. It was here where he wrote "Guide to the Lakes" which was published in 1810 and it suggested that the Lakes could become a 'sort of national property' which w

Climbing every mountain

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While I spend time in the Lakes District, Cumbria, I've been doing my best to climb and hike as much as possible. I have come to truly enjoy solo hiking. I go where I want, when I want and it means I can avoid the crowds. But I also recognize the dangers in it so I try to be as careful as possible, particularly considering that before this year my hikes generally consisted of walking through a parking garage to a grocery store. So to say I'm experienced is a stretch. But the exercise, fresh air, independence and the views make it all my new favorite hobby. At the top of Old Man Coniston Armed with new hiking shoes that I've slowly been breaking in, sometimes on just a walk to the end of the block and back, I have a go-bag for my hiking gear. Here's what I take: Waterproof jacket (with hood), camera, granola bar for a snack, sunglasses (hopeful thinking that the sun will come out), a detailed terrain map, my phone fully charged and loaded with MapMe and What Three Words,

Cows: Friend or Foe?

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The first time I encountered cattle in the field was walking back from Stonehenge to the visitor center. I was forewarned that they were friendly and used to walkers due to the common occurrence of it around the Stonehenge area. I laughed off the warning, thinking that cows are always friendly unless threatened... right? Right!? My friends that have farms are likely laughing at my ignorance here (including my uncle who has a herd of cattle), but in a country where walking paths often lead through fields with livestock it's actually not unheard of for cattle to cause issues for walkers and there is an occasional death. Mauled by a cow isn’t really what I want in my obituary. But it should be simple...at least that's what the signs say for walkers: Respect the cows, don't get in between mothers and calves, keep dogs on a leash unless a cow attacks, avoid the herd all together if possible, etc etc. To me this seems basic. But what do you do when there is a 1,000 lb young bull

Becoming a morning person

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Five years ago I traveled around Iceland with my dad. We were there for about 10 days and for the majority of the trip we were camping. We quickly got into a nice routine, wake up early (5am), see the sights until 11am (stopping briefly for a bowl of cereal at 8am). By doing this we had the run of the island, even though the sun barely set at that time of the year, the tourists didn't come out until after their morning breakfast and tea (10am). By that time we were getting ready to stop for lunch, a nap and then drive to our next location. In the early afternoon we would pitch our tents, check out the area, head to a pub for a meal then be in bed by 830p to start it all again the next day. It was an easy rhythm and it kept us ahead of the crowds.  I have quickly realized, that's the right approach in England as well. So I went from being a night owl to becoming a morning person. And I reaped the rewards with early morning visits to Mam Tor, Lyme Estate and Castlerigg Stone Circ

Making connections

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The most wonderful thing about my friends and family is the incredible connections everyone makes. And when you meet a good group of people, they are usually happy to introduce you to other like-minded people. I assume this is true in any circle, or maybe it's just me.  I genuinely enjoy the experience of hearing someone else's stories, their perspective and their experiences in this crazy world. And on this trip of sorts I've been on, I've been fortunate enough to meet a lot of people on my way, but also have the joy of friends and visitors.  After I left the Kenning's house in Matlock, Nicky introduced me to her friend in the Lakes District to get a local perspective on the walks in the area. In a stroke of luck, Sandy happened to live just five doors down from where I was staying in the Lake District and when you consider how large the region is it's a one of those crazy coincidences that happen sometimes.   Sandy, who is a retired microbiologist is very acti

A new home: Backbarrow Cottage

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Cumbria, the farthest northwest corner of England, is a beautiful county that encompasses the Lake District. For most of June, three weeks to be exact, I'll be living in a two-bedroom cottage in Backbarrow.  Once again, I'm lucky enough to be in the Lake District before the summer school holidays begin so I'm hoping to do my best to avoid the big crowds in July and August. As for the cottage, I chose it fully based on the lovely conservatory that I would be able to sit in to work during the day. It made me feel like I was living in a terrarium.  

Look out my turn!

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If I thought London roads were tricky, I wasn't prepared for the twisting, winding, incredibly narrow roads of Cornwall and the Lake District. I was warned about the roads, but I had driven on the winding lanes in New Zealand, how bad could it be. Ha! I was wrong. Anything less than a motorway or highway is essentially a one-lane road that requires concentration and staying alert for cars coming around a hedge or bend at full-speed straight on. This is like a combination of racecar driving and a game of chicken at the same time. (Pictured is a two-way road in Cornwall with high hedges on both sides)  But to my pleasant surprise, every car isn't out to get you. Unlike driving in the States where everyone only seems to be focused on their own end goal, these drivers are kind and pleasant and I rarely come across one that doesn't give a polite wave of thanks when you slide out of the way. It's a lot more like driving on dirt roads back home and it makes me happy to be a pa

New Old Friends

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More than 50 years ago my mom enrolled herself into a boarding school in England. Not a small feat when you consider that today's technology (internet, email, etc) wasn't available for her to find the school, let alone set up the enrollment. (If anyone ever wonders why I have a love for experiencing things around the world, all they have to do is look to my parents and family.) Fast forward to today and my mom still keeps in touch with her closest friend from that experience. And lucky for me, her friend Nicky, was willing to host me for a few nights on my way north from Cornwall. Now, the last time I met Nicky and her family I think I was all of about 6 or 7, so it's been a few years. But Nicky and her family have crossed paths with my mom and our family so many times, it still feels like I've known her a lot longer. So when I arrived in Matlock for the long weekend, it felt like a little taste of home. I had a comfortable bed to sleep in (the most comfortable since I

Sometimes it's just one of those days

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I had a perfect plan for my drive north... leave Cornwall at 6am, explore the Plymouth area for about an hour to stretch my legs and see where my ancestors departed on the Mayflower, drive to Bristol to have a leisurely lunch with a co-worker and stretch my legs again. Finally make my way to my final destination in the Peak District by 6pm, well in advance of dinner. Total drive time 6 hours. Total time on the road 12 hours or less. It was the perfect plan so of course it didn't go at all as I expected. I got off to a beautiful start, waking up without an alarm and off on the road about an hour after sunrise. I was warned about the traffic on the long weekend so I was happy to be getting ahead of it. And if I'm going to spend a weekend day driving, I like to feel like I'm enjoying the trip.  I arrived in Plymouth before people even started to stir. I easily found parking and located the port where the Mayflower departed almost exactly 400 years ago. I was surprised to see h

Feeling at Home in Cornwall

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For the last three weeks I have explored, walked and wandered across the coast and along the hilltops of Cornwall. Before coming I was told it was the "Maldives of England" and I had my doubts as to what that would actually mean. I'm not sure I would call it the Maldives of England but it has certainly found a place in my heart.  So far I have timed things nicely to avoid the crowds and my time in Cornwall was no exception. As I sit here writing on my last night the number of campers in the caravan park has gone from three other groups (besides me and the owners) to at least 10 families and I'm told tomorrow will be the crazy day of check ins. I'm happy to be heading north, but I'm sad to leave the coastline behind. The roads were slightly terrifying, the wind rarely took a break, the rain made a near daily appearance, and a scarf and gloves were permanently in my backpack just in case... but I enjoyed every minute.  Kernow, as the locals call it, was settled

A new home: Caravan in Cornwall

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I never thought I would find myself living in a caravan, which is essentially a small trailer home, but now that I'm in one, I can't say that I'm disappointed. And after living on a boat last summer with two other people for two weeks, this is a dream! My caravan is nicely situated in the farthest southern corner of England, in fact the most Southern point (Lizard Point) is just a 15-minute drive away. To get to the caravan park, I drive a mile down a winding, one-lane road into and out of a small valley that leads me to a clifftop with a gorgeous view of the surrounding area - including a view of the ocean in the distance. The caravan park is incredibly well maintained and is mixed use with space for permanent caravans and mobile caravans (the kind that you can pull on a trailer behind a vehicle). When I first entered my own, it was smaller than I expected, but the living room more than makes up for it. The expanse of windows across the front is a lovely change and makes a

The Mysterious Stonehenge

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Merlin's creation? A burial place for Danish Kings? The ruins of an ancient Roman temple? A place of healing or worship? An astronomical computer for predicting eclipses and solar events? Or a way to talk to creatures in outer space? There are a number of theories about how Stonehenge was built and why. Today, the interpretation of Stonehenge is generally as a prehistoric temple aligned with the movements of the sun. But for me, it wasn't as much about why it was there or how it got there, I revelled in the experience of seeing it up close and personal. As a gift to myself I purchased the VIP experience, which is essentially a visit to the stones prior to the park opening. And unlike the general tourists, on this tour, you are given the opportunity to freely roam around the stones (as long as you don't touch). A guide goes with the group to answer questions or provide information as requested. On a normal day, these tours could have up to 30 people. For me, with Covid restr

Another trip around the sun

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First of all, I should explain. I love my birthday. Not because I want presents or to celebrate me, but because May 7th is nicely situated at the end of the school year, with fresh spring weather, tulips and peonies are blooming, and most importantly, it's the best opportunity to bring people together. A lot of good memories have come from my birthday celebrations. Last year, a milestone birthday, I was going to celebrate in Boise, Idaho (in my mind an underrated, charming city - however, thanks to Covid, I have yet to confirm this assessment). Instead I spent it with one of my best friends and her family. I was still spoiled and surrounded by love so definitely a great alternative. At that time, if someone would have guessed where I would spend my next birthday, I don't think I would have guessed London in a million tries. So to be honest, without doing anything at all, my birthday was going to be a good one (and it helps that it started with a midnight Zoom call from family a

A new weekend, a new neighborhood (or two)

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With several neighborhoods now crossed off my list of potential new digs, I decided to head East. There seems to be a little bit of a rivalry in London about which side of the city is better. And from everything I can tell it's really the people on the west side that are the most vocal. I have yet to meet anyone from the east that seems to even care about the rivalry. But with so many telling me that "west is best," I wasn't sure what to expect when I ventured to the east. Shoreditch / Hoxton So I set off for Shoreditch. I knew quickly I was in the right place, I felt like I had stepped outside a pandemic world and quickly into the land of hipsters... the streets were packed with 20-somethings - skateboarders weaved between people, leashed dogs and cars. Very few masks were to be found in the bustling markets with lines 20-people long for food stalls. Designer graffiti in decorated alleys. It didn't take me long to recognize this would be a fun place to visit but